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How to remove static military model parts perfectly

Dec 04, 2017

1. It's simple.

The key here is: Never gild the part that has been dissolved by the glue.

This may backfire, resulting in more severe deformation. In fact, as long as the parts have been separated on the side can be (like the bottom of the image). After 1 days or so after the glue is completely cured, the removal of the spare parts and the deformation part of the repair work. This works better.

2. Excision/removal

If the glue has been cured, the direct break apart will have a certain risk, may cause the deformation of the parts and the damage. In this case, it is best to use the pen knife first along the parts of the bonding parts cut out a seam, and then slowly break. At this time to pay attention to the deformation of the parts, once the deformation of the part of the signs, must be stopped immediately, to replace the following the ultimate way.

3. Freezing method

Sometimes the bonded model parts do not have the removal/removal conditions, or are hard to force, so we will have to use a physics principle we learned in high school to "shrink the shrinkage and contraction" to help us solve this problem.

Boil water to 50-70 degrees, "pay attention to the thickness of the parts to control the water temperature, not the whole deformation" put in and so hot lost refrigerator freezer room. The glue will naturally collapse.

Throw the model into the freezer for a few hours, because of the expansion and contraction of the cause of the small cracks between the parts, and this crack often appears in the connection between the parts. Well, that's a good chance for us to break them down.

4. What if even the freezing method doesn't work?

First of all, basically 99% of the parts can be broken down by the "freezing method", if not even this, can only be expected to break down and then repaired.